A marathon pace chart turns a goal finish time into an easy reference: pace per kilometre plus key checkpoint splits (5k/10k/half/30k/40k). Used well, it keeps you calm and consistent. Used badly, it becomes an excuse to sprint early.
What a pace chart is (and isn’t)
- It is: a planning tool to keep you near your target pace and avoid big early mistakes.
- It isn’t: a promise that you must hit every split perfectly (course, crowds, weather and GPS error all matter).
- Best use: check only a few “anchor points” (10k / half / 30k / 40k) and run the rest by effort.
1) Pick a realistic goal time
Choose a time you can support with training—not wishful thinking. A simple way to stay honest is to set three goals:
- A-goal (safe): a time you can run even if the day isn’t perfect.
- B-goal (likely): your best estimate with decent conditions.
- C-goal (stretch): a great day + great execution (only chase this after 25–30km feels controlled).
If you’ve recently raced, your half-marathon time (and how you handled long runs) is usually a better anchor than a single fast 10k.
2) Convert the goal time into pace (and don’t over-precision it)
Once you have a goal time, convert it to an exact pace per km and a set of checkpoint splits. Then treat the chart as guidance, not a metronome.
In real races, ±5 sec/km variation is normal and often unavoidable. Your job is to avoid big mistakes (like 20 sec/km too fast early).
Worked example: sub-4 pace checkpoints
For a sub-4 marathon (3:59:59), your key checkpoints are roughly:
| Checkpoint | Target time |
|---|---|
| 10 km | 56:52 |
| Half marathon | 2:00:00 |
| 30 km | 2:50:37 |
| 40 km | 3:47:30 |
If those numbers make you nervous, that’s useful information — set A/B goals and use the calculator to build a plan you can actually execute.
3) Focus on key checkpoints (not every kilometre)
Most pacing blow-ups come from the first 10–15km. Use a few checkpoints to keep yourself under control:
- 10 km: should feel “too easy”. If it already feels like a workout, you’re too fast.
- Half marathon: check breathing, posture, and fueling. Small drift is fine; panic is not.
- 30 km (“honesty point”): hold form and rhythm. If you’re straining here, back off early to save the last 12km.
- 40 km: race what you have left. Don’t try to “make back” minutes—aim for steady effort.
4) Use “even effort” on hills, wind and heat
On a flat, cool day, even splits can work. On a hilly course or in heat, forcing an exact pace can cook you. Instead:
- Let pace slow slightly uphill and recover downhill.
- Run by effort into headwinds and accept small pace losses.
- In heat/humidity, start conservatively and treat your goal time as flexible.
A good rule: protect your first half. A small “loss” early is often a big “gain” late.
5) Build a pace band you can actually use
A pace band is a short list of splits you can glance at without doing maths. Keep it simple:
- Include: 5k, 10k, half, 30k, 35k, 40k, and finish.
- Add a small buffer note: “Aid stations = +10–20 sec”.
- Print it, tape it to your wrist, or write it on your arm.
6) Race-day execution (simple plan)
- 0–5 km: controlled, relaxed, slightly under target if needed.
- 5–25 km: settle into rhythm. Fuel early and consistently.
- 25–32 km: stay disciplined. This is where patience pays.
- 32–42 km: run by effort and form. If you still feel strong at 35–37km, you can squeeze gradually.
7) Use goal-time pages for exact targets
For exact splits (and quick “what pace is X?” answers), use a goal-time page:
Use the pace chart in training (so race day isn’t new)
A pace chart is most useful when you’ve practiced the rhythm in training. A few simple ways to use it:
- Steady long runs: check your pace at 10k / 20k / 30k markers (or time-based equivalents) to learn what “controlled” feels like.
- Marathon-pace blocks: practice short segments near goal pace (for example, 2 × 20 minutes) and aim for smooth pacing, not hero splits.
- Dress rehearsal: try the same watch screen / lap setup you’ll use on race day.
If you want structure, your monthly training planner is a good place to build a progression toward race-specific pacing.
Watch setup (quick wins)
- Display lap pace (1 km) instead of instant pace.
- Auto-lap at 1 km if you like (or manual laps at course markers).
- Use alerts sparingly — too many beeps increases stress.
Common mistakes (avoid these)
- Banking time: running fast early rarely “stores” minutes for later—usually it steals them.
- Chasing instant GPS pace: use lap pace (1 km) or effort; GPS is noisy.
- Overreacting to small misses: one slow km doesn’t matter; a 5 km surge does.
- Ignoring conditions: heat and hills demand effort-based pacing.
Related: even splits vs negative splits
If you’re unsure whether to pace evenly or build into the race, read this guide:
FAQ
Do I need to hit every split exactly?
No. Use checkpoints and aim for steady effort. Small variation is normal.
Why doesn’t my watch pace match the chart?
GPS pace fluctuates. Prefer lap pace (1 km), or use effort/heart rate as a guide.
Should I run even splits or negative splits?
Most runners benefit from a slightly conservative first half. The best strategy depends on conditions and your experience.
How do I handle hills with a pace chart?
Run even effort: slow a little uphill, regain gently downhill. Don’t force exact pace on climbs.
What if I lose time at aid stations?
That’s normal. Don’t “make it back” with a surge—return to rhythm and let it come naturally.
Is min/km or min/mile better?
Use whatever you think in. If your watch is set to miles, use the min/mile chart for quick reference.
How do I choose a realistic goal time?
Base it on recent races and long-run durability. When uncertain, set a safer A-goal and reassess after 25–30km.